ESTRELA DO MAR,

Estrela do Mar has been resurrected, under new ownership that-understands what made Frank Clemente's original place so wonderful. Under George Rodrigues, whose father opened what was only the second Portuguese restaurant in New England back in the '70s, changes appear to have been for the better. He cooks on the busy weekends and supervises during the week while his wife, Nelci, serves as hostess. Nothing that wasn't broken was fixed. Prices are still quite low, with seafood dishes $12 to $14, except for the paelha and mariscada medleys at $20, and the market-price lobster. Nearly half of the more than two-dozen wines, all Portuguese, are less than $15, and there are some pricier bargains. Speaking of fancy, the once-plain dining room now has delicate peach-colored walls and swagged curtains. It's larger, pushed out 18 feet, so the place can accommodate 124 diners and there's plenty of parking in the lot across the street.

Full review.